Turbo seals

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sirwilliam
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Turbo seals

Post by sirwilliam »

Okay, so I picked up a VF39 in great condition last year. It has been sitting down in a box in my basement in the furnace room. It has been over a couple months. Should I be worried about the seals drying out and cracking? Are those expensive and hard to replace? Let me know. Thanks.
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complacent
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Post by complacent »

Was there any oil left in the cartridge before it was put away?

Were the lines covered before being stored?
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Post by sirwilliam »

complacent wrote:Was there any oil left in the cartridge before it was put away?

Were the lines covered before being stored?
Not sure about the oil. I think the lines were covered.

I will check it out tonight when I get home.

If no to these answers, I will probably need new seals, right? :(
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Post by complacent »

I'd say possibly. But unfortunately the only two ways to tell would be to either install it and prime the :censor: out of it before running with it, or send it to a shop to have them check it out. Both are time and/or $$ heavy.

I feel like I'm a pretty decent mechanic, but I just don't feel "comfy" about disassembling and reassembling something that spins at over 70k rpm.

Know what I mean?
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Post by sirwilliam »

complacent wrote:I'd say possibly. But unfortunately the only two ways to tell would be to either install it and prime the :censor: out of it before running with it, or send it to a shop to have them check it out. Both are time and/or $$ heavy.

I feel like I'm a pretty decent mechanic, but I just don't feel "comfy" about disassembling and reassembling something that spins at over 70k rpm.

Know what I mean?
Yes. I do know what you mean. Thank you very much for the input. What is a good place to send to check it out? Should I just drop it off at blouch for the 18G upgrade and just tell them to replace the seals when it is apart? That might be the easiest way. Do you know a ball park figure for how much seal replacement costs?
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Post by complacent »

If you're planning on upgrading it, get it all done at the same place. It is easier - and you've got a single place to deal with if something goes south.

I've got no idea how much it will cost just to do the seals.
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Post by sirwilliam »

complacent wrote:If you're planning on upgrading it, get it all done at the same place. It is easier - and you've got a single place to deal with if something goes south.

I've got no idea how much it will cost just to do the seals.
Yeah, that is what I was thinking. Okay, thanks.
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Post by drwrx »

If your thinking of having it taken apart, that is the time to do the wheel upgrade, although it is $350.
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Post by drwrx »

Actually, having a turbo sit in a dry and warm enviroment is unlikely to do it any harm. You could inject some motor oil into the cartridge and just make sure you store it so that it doesn't run out. And yes, cover the lines.
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Post by Sabre »

Yep, the turbo should be fine as long as you covered the lines and intake.
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Post by sirwilliam »

drwrx wrote:If your thinking of having it taken apart, that is the time to do the wheel upgrade, although it is $350.
Yes, it will cost me $350. BLOUCH UPGRADE LINKY

Might think about porting it while I am at it depending on how much the seals will cost if they need to be replaced.

I was thinking of the 18G vs. the 20G for quicker spool up...and the cost of the VF39 plus the cost of the upgrade will still be much cheaper than getting a Td05-18G which has similar(if not identical) characteristics.
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Post by sirwilliam »

Just got off the phone w/ Blouch. The guy mike said I shouldn't have to worry about the seals but they will have to take the VF39 apart and inspect to make sure it has enough clearance for the 18G upgrade. He said the disassembly/reassembly will cost $90 if they deem the turbo unfit for the upgrade (meaning too much shaft play or old turbo). I have about 12k miles w/ no shaft play so I should be good.
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Post by Sabre »

Pretty good deal there! I've heard good things about Blouch. I would definitely get it ported/polished while I was in there, as later on you could kick yourself for not getting it done.
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Post by sirwilliam »

PM sent to Julian, Darrin and Colin.
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"Nothing shuts my pie-hole but pie." -Shawn Spencer
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Post by sirwilliam »

Well, checked out my VF39 last night and I was worrying for nothing. It is in pretty much pristine condition aside from a little surface rust on the outside of the exhaust side which is fairly common for 12k miles and just be rubbed/cleaned off. Both lines were taped up well.

I decided to go for a brand new TD05 18G 7cm^2 instead so I will be picking that up at lunch. Turns out to be a cheaper deal vs. getting my VF39 upgraded to a 18G compressor. Plus if the VF39 ever has problems, it isn't rebuildable...Blouch can only upgrade the compressor side b/c IHI doesn't make replacement parts, they only make new turbos.

Thanks to Julian, Darrin, and Colin for your help/info. Much obliged.
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Post by drwrx »

Here is a post from Jorge of P&L on a 2006 WRX wagon with an 18G and basic mods:

When a "typical setup" comes along and blows me out of the water, I think it's noteworthy

Image

Vibrant header
Injectors,
TBE
upgraded TMIC
FP's new 18G
Typhoon

2006 WRX wagon with 13000 miles. Put it this way, this is run 8. Run 9 had the clutch slip at 3400.

Your typical 18G does around 300-320 on 93 octane at the typical PSI levels I run them at....

It'll be interesting to see if I can repeat this on the next of the latest generation FP18G that comes through the door.
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Post by sirwilliam »

Yeah, I was thinking I may just keep the tune I get close to 300WHP and similar torque. Not sure if I am going to throw on my coated EQL header or not.

Here is a pic of the finished prototype header (finished production set will be nicer/smoother):

Image
Image

What do you guys think? Said to be the same coating (inside/out) used on the F1 race cars.

Also, not sure if I want to get a larger TMIC now (have the OEM STi TMIC), either since I am not using the VF39 anymore. I will definitely grab the 650cc injectors w/ upgraded fuel pump before the tune. My exhaust and turbo are impatiently waiting and ready for COBB! :twisted: I am getting excited! I just want my power back! Guess I should install my brake upgrade first before the power :wink:
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Post by Sabre »

Coating looks like Black Satin to me, haha.

If you want the sound, don't do the headers, if you want a little power increase, do them (but loose your boxer rumble).
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Post by drwrx »

Those are really nice looking headers. But that is one funky looking 3 bolt flange! Hope they came with an up-pipe and gasket to match.

Honestly, I would say sell your STi TMIC and grab an SSautochrome/ebay TMIC. They're big (675 cu vs. 400 cu for the STi), and I was pretty impressed with Brian's. The fitment is first rate, way better than mine!

I would highly recommend a new tune to go with your 18G. It will not behave like the vf39. It will hold boost much longer, and while not radically bigger I think it it is enough to justify a new tune. Especially with an intake, headers, and a bigger TMIC.

Just my $.02
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Post by drwrx »

Headers make very good gains (even untuned), lower EGTs, and save weight over stock. I don't see a downside.
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Post by zaxrex »

that flange IS funky. Def going to need some way to get from there to the turbo...
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Post by sirwilliam »

Thanks again to Julian for double-checking/inspecting the 18G turbo for me at lunch. That will teach me to go to the wrong five guys :roll: :lol:
drwrx wrote:Those are really nice looking headers. But that is one funky looking 3 bolt flange! Hope they came with an up-pipe and gasket to match.

Honestly, I would say sell your STi TMIC and grab an SSautochrome/ebay TMIC. They're big (675 cu vs. 400 cu for the STi), and I was pretty impressed with Brian's. The fitment is first rate, way better than mine!

I would highly recommend a new tune to go with your 18G. It will not behave like the vf39. It will hold boost much longer, and while not radically bigger I think it it is enough to justify a new tune. Especially with an intake, headers, and a bigger TMIC.

Just my $.02
Actually, that is a 4 bolt flange made for a special 3 bolt gasketless uppipe (well, at least where the uppipe bolts to the header) that is being made to work w/ the header but the 4 bolt flange still allows the stock uppipe to be used w/ a gasket.
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Post by drwrx »

sirwilliam wrote:gasketless uppipe (well, at least where the uppipe bolts to the header)
I'm not certain I'd trust to that. Some sort of material is always a good thing between metal parts. Our engines pitch plenty and that spot is prime for leaking. Perhaps this is worth a call to "mr gasket" (the thick cork-like material)
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Post by sirwilliam »

drwrx wrote:
sirwilliam wrote:gasketless uppipe (well, at least where the uppipe bolts to the header)
I'm not certain I'd trust to that. Some sort of material is always a good thing between metal parts. Our engines pitch plenty and that spot is prime for leaking. Perhaps this is worth a call to "mr gasket" (the thick cork-like material)
Oh, don't worry b/c I don't. :wink: I am using the stock uppipe w/ OEM gasket...that is IF I decide to put it on. Haven't decided yet. I really like power but I really like the boxer rumble.
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"Nothing shuts my pie-hole but pie." -Shawn Spencer
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Post by complacent »

drwrx wrote:Perhaps this is worth a call to "mr gasket"
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