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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

Sabre wrote:
Phibs wrote:Btw the Helix mentions this:

We highly recommend the use of a BIG MAF and aftermarket turbo inlet hose with this turbo charger.

I have the cobb intake is that large enough? Also, what turbo inlet hose would I require? Also do I stick with an IWG or EWG and what would be the benefit / cost ?
BIG MAF is used when you run the stock MAF static... I'd try to stay with the stock one if you could for tuning.

The inlet hose is required generally to make the install easier or if you end up going with a 3" inlet (stock one is 2.4"). FYI, most say you need to do TGV deletes if you go 3".

EWG give you a little more power, but are much louder unless you pipe them back into the DP. IWG's look stock and require no repiping :)
Nice I'll stick with IWG then. So I am ok with the cobb intake or do I need to roll with the big MAF?

So do I go with a 3" inlet ? What are TGV deletes ;)
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Post by drwrx »

Phibs wrote:Nice I'll stick with IWG then. So I am ok with the cobb intake or do I need to roll with the big MAF?

So do I go with a 3" inlet ? What are TGV deletes ;)
These questions are all related (kinda).

If you stay with your stock MAF you can keep your Cobb intake.
If your staying with your stock MAF there is not much point in going to a 3" inlet, and, in my opinion, no reason to get a turbo inlet pipe.

All this will save you some bucks as well as make the install much easier.

If your goal is to get to 350whp or so (dynojet), the stock MAF and 2.4 inlet should work just fine. There are plenty of folks out there making that and more without a blowthrough or big MAF and a 3" inlet.

If your goals are 400+whp you really should be thinking Big MAF, 3" inlet and a larger turbo than the RR500.
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Post by Phibs »

Nope, just looking for something between 350 and 400 WHP. Thanks for the responses guys, as always you guys are very helpful. If you ever have computer/networking/programming questions shoot em off to me ;)
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Post by Phibs »

So the SSA IC came today. It came with rubber hose and metal tubing ( which seemed a lil cheesy but I guess it works? ) It also came with a
BOV, should I use it or keep the stock BOV?

I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
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drwrx
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Post by drwrx »

I'd be interested in seeing the pics.
I'd keep your stock BOV. No sence in having to tune around an atmospheric venting BOV if you don't have to.
Are the rubber hose and metal tubing for the turbo intake side?
I'd have to see what your talking about.
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Post by zaxrex »

If you are worried about getting close to the 5V max on the stock sensor and loosing accuracy but don'w want to go to a huge pipe, I would reccomend seeing if you could pick up a 70mm APS CAI. It is onle 5mm larger in diameter, but not huge enough to cause you to get a new inlet tube.

Just a thought
Patience is the ability to idle your motor when you feel like stripping your gears
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Post by Phibs »

I'll take pics when I get home.
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Post by Phibs »

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Post by drwrx »

Everything looks in good order and the IC condition looks fine, exactly what I would have expected. The silicone hoses appear to be decent and should work without issue. Those cast hose couplers may look a bit raw, but that won't effect their performance in any way. You will want to either buy some new gaskets or use the ones off your stock IC. The thin metal piping is to replace the stock recirculator piping that is currently bolted to your STI IC. You may not even need it.
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Post by Phibs »

It came with two gaskets and I'm selling the stock IC so I figure i'll use
all the new parts. Will I need that BOV?
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Post by drwrx »

Phibs wrote:Will I need that BOV?
I doubt it. If it is a recirculating BOV it wouldn't hurt to have it on. But unless the stock BOV won't hold boost there's no reason to not use it.
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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

So the Turbo + Inj + Pump should be here Thursday, finally!
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Post by drwrx »

Phibs wrote:So the Turbo + Inj + Pump should be here Thursday, finally!
Now all you need is a base MAP, a free weekend and your set!
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Post by Phibs »

Yeah hehe. Well, you need a free weekend too, I hope ;)
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Post by drwrx »

Phibs wrote:you need a free weekend too, I hope
Those are becoming few and far between.
I won't have a free one until mid October.
You also need to ask Julian real nicely as well, as I've never done STi injectors before and would want some expertise.
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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

Julian, got a free weekend anytime soon? :) I'd do it myself, but it doesn't seem like something I want to screw up.
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Post by Sabre »

My free weekends are quickly going the way of the dodo bird as well :( This weekend I might have some time on Sunday, I'll know more at the end of the week.

Believe it or not, STI injectors are pretty simple. Whenever we do them we should have a couple of people around, even though it's a one man job, just to see how it's done.
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Post by drwrx »

My sunday will be free after about 12:30, so that could be doable.

Wow, this could all come together quickly . . . all we need now is a MAP for those injectors!
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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

Yeah gonna call a few places tomorrow, emailed Jeff again but no reply.
Anywhere else to look? Does nasioc have a thread for that kinda thing?
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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

I did get this reply from enginuity's site:

http://freon.shackspace.com/car/ecu%20a ... atency.txt

Maybe someone who knows what they are doing could mod my current map to fit the injectors?
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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

Also got this, seems easy enough:

1. Use ecuFlash to download the current rom from your car.
2. Open the ROM in Enginuity
3. Open the Fuel->Injector Latency table, select the bottom row of values in that table, and paste in the following values: 6.05, 2.13, 1.28, 0.92, 0.59
4. Open the "injector flow scaling" table, and change the value to 820.
5. Open the "Throttle tip-in enrichment" table, highlight the bottom row, type ".68" in the box next to the "mult" button. Click Mult (sometimes you have to do this 2x to get it to effect the rows, look to see that it changes).
6. Save the rom to your computer
7. Reflash using ecuFlash

That probably isn't anywhere near perfect (hopefully that puts you running a little bit rich), but should get you running so you can get to your tuner.

After you flash, log A/F Learning #1 and A/F Correction #1 using the enginuity logger, and make sure those values combined aren't too high/low at idle. (anything further than 10% from 0 would be too high for sure). If they are high/low, post back here with the values and someone should be able to recommend what to tweak.

EDIT: If you are uncomfortable doing this, and have permission from your tuner to post the ROM on the web, upload a copy of it and someone can tweak it for you...
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Phibs
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Post by Phibs »

Anyone? No tuners here? ;)
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Post by drwrx »

Phibs wrote:Anyone? No tuners here?
There are some of us who had UTECs and did a bit of their own tuning, (adjusting timing, pulling some fuel, adding some boost) but the UTEC interface and Enginuity are very different and I for one certainly wouldn't feel comfortable enough with it to make those kind of adjustments without a great deal more experience. I also don't know anyone here who would have much experience with injector scaling, latency and throttle tip-in enrichment adjustment as well as being able to modify MAF/voltage curves given your intake and new turbo. That is why I recommended you spend some time talking with local tuners first before jumping into this. The factory ECU is remarkably adaptive. But once you step-up to larger injectors that adaptability goes out the window, and things become much more complicated (by a factor of 10).

I have the tactrix cable so we can try this and it certainly "should" work. It covers my biggest concerns about driving the car (scaling and latency).
The throttle tip-in adjustment won't matter that much once you get rolling and even if your very rich (I had this problem) it's nothing a a good tuner new set of plugs can't cure.
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Post by Phibs »

yeah I just want it to be safe enough to drive to get it tuned, not trying to do it myself.
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Post by Sabre »

As long as you stay off boost, you should be just fine with the scaling. The important thing is to stay in closed loop so that the ECU can keep the correct AFR's and timing.
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