zaxrex wrote:Ron has had his hands in a few of the members cars on here.
I have the same suspension in my blue WRX, just plugged it back in and found errors on the rear motors.
If yours is a labor of love, then mine is a love/hate relationship.
If you are looking for big power, I have a semi-closed 2.5 deck that needs new sleeves. Might be the same as to what you have, but just throwing it out there.
Now you have to turn that show into go!
I am on my second short block. I was told my TBE would be fine to run on the car until I got my Cobb AP........ Well something went wrong. lol So I got the new Shortblock put in installed the AP and was happy.
Ron was getting into the Open Source thing at the time, so I got with him and let him do a tune on my car. He spent hours tweaking and tweaking the map. Even though I wasn't on a dyno the butt dyno definitely felt the difference. I dont know anyone else's experience with Ron but I was thrilled. I rented a place with him when I bought my STi and watched him learn in his early days of building his bugeye. He is literally a rocket scientist by trade so once he get into learning tuning and ECU programing I knew it would take off for him. So all I can do is go offf my experience but I had an excellent experience. One of the things to get done on my car before I even get into this next round of upgrades is to get a solid eastcoast tune from him after I get my new clutch installed.
drwrx wrote:BIGMICK wrote:Going to shop turbos equal length headers, injectors, boost control solenoids etc...
Let the discussion commense.
How much whp you are looking for?
Are you looking for peak power or power under the curve?
Are you thinking of adding water/meth injection?
I want a 400whp daily driveable car. I would prefer to stay away from Meth if I can due to the long term negative effects of it. I dont want a drag car, I want a street/curvy road car. There is aways going to be someone faster so I am not worried about making the most horsepower ever. I have been trying to balance performance and styling as I built the car. The paint and everything I had done recently are the result of getting sideswiped a week after moving to Maryland. (awesome welcome back gift!) I upgrade the area most cost and logistically effective depending on what is being done on the car. So for example since I am doing the clutch, I will have the short throw short shifter installed and all the mounts and bushings done at that time that are accessible.
I would like consistent power under the curve. The last thing I want is a car that is undrivable because there is too much peak horsepower and lag. So I am thinking FP Red or something along those lines, definitely ball bearing, I want to avoid going rotated mount.
Any lessons learned or suggestions are definitely welcome. I look at doing the setup on my current stock block, and then migrating it over to the built motor when it is ready.