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Hey guys, long time...but I've been at the Galant tweaking away again and finally got around to getting some final things installed as well as some dyno runs down at Ptuning. Dyno'd at 265 whp @ only 15psi, which is just where I wanted to be for regular street driving, no doubt the car can handle quite a bit more boost and throw down with some much bigger numbers, but for now I'm very happy and it's quite quick. Here's what I got...keep in mind, my intentions for this car are just as a street car with a little extra fun...so tuning is rather mild.

1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 (141/1000)
Street Build

Engine/Fuel Performance:
-Rebuilt 4G63 Engine (Factory Spec)
-Mitsubishi EVO III 16G Turbo (Ported by Road Race Engineering)
-Tial 38mm External Wastegate
-ETS FMIC
-ETS 2.5” Intercooler Piping
-HKS Electronic Valve Controller (HKS EVC EZ)
-APEXi SAFC
-RC Racing 550cc Injectors
-Walbro 255hp lph Fuel Pump
-Aeromotive AFPR
-Keydiver Stage 3 Chip
-CHM 0-100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge
-Magnecor KV85 Competition 8.5mm Plug Wires
-NGK BPR7ES Plugs
-Custom Oil Catch Can

Exhaust/Intake:
-Magnaflow High-Flow Cat
-3” Mandrel Bent Downpipe
-3” Mandrel Bent Cat-Back
-Vibrant Flat Black Muffler (3.5” Dual Tip)
-K&N Performance Intake Filter
-Custom Intake Piping
-Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS 482 MAS
-2G Exhaust Manifold (Ported)

Drivetrain/Suspension:
-ACT 2100 Clutch
-KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks
-Whiteline Lowering Springs
-Whiteline Rear Camber Bushings
-Whiteline Front Control Arm Caster Bushings
-Short Shifter

Rolling Stock:
Summer:
-17x7 5Zigen Heidfeld Wheels
-Falken Ziex 912s 215-50-17R

Winter:
-Stock Wheels (Summit White)
-Nokian Studded Hakka-1 195/65/15
Interior:
-Momo Competition Wheel
-Momo Steering Wheel Hub Adapter
-HKS Electronic Valve Controller (HKS EVC EZ)
-Palm m100 Datalogger w/ MMCd Software
-Pioneer CD Player
-2 Amps (Trunk Mounted)
-HKS Turbo Timer Type-0
-APEXi SAFC
-Autometer Sport Comp Boost Gauge
-Autometer Sport Comp Air/Fuel Gauge
-Autometer Sport Comp Oil Pressure Gauge
-Lotek A Pillar Gauge Pod (2 Gauge)

Exterior:
-JDM Corners

Misc. Performance:
-Optima Yellowtop Battery (910ca/720cca)
-Battery Relocated to Trunk
-Upgraded Headlights Silverstar Ultras (lows)
-New Aluminum Radiator

Going on a little vacation action but when I return I will be making it out to most of the meets. Catch you guys later.

Hey, good to see you back on here! I'd love a ride sometime! Very happy to see the car all sorted out!

I absolutely <3 these cars. sooo glad to see one well cared for.

Nice! I will have to keep an eye out for you since you are around my area.

I almost bought a '91 model....the belize green color. such a FUN car.

He has one of those too. We have been playing around with the idea of shiping it down here and making it into a rally-x/auto-x machine.

Yeah, another DSMer. My build w/ some of the same mods here:

http://forums.dcawd.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=9175

VR4s are great cars. Rally buddy had one I'd borrow for weeks to go search for rallyroads and roadtrip to races. Brought it back to him one w/ exhaust in trunk and another time drove it back from northern Canada to DC w/ no throttle cable.

prorallycodriver wrote:Yeah, another DSMer. My build w/ some of the same mods here:

http://forums.dcawd.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=9175

and another time drove it back from northern Canada to DC w/ no throttle cable.

Pardon my ignorance of the model and brand here, but what?!?

complacent wrote:

prorallycodriver wrote:Yeah, another DSMer. My build w/ some of the same mods here:

http://forums.dcawd.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=9175

and another time drove it back from northern Canada to DC w/ no throttle cable.

Pardon my ignorance of the model and brand here, but what?!?

My car is a AWD turbo Plymouth Laser. Forgot to mention I also had a Galant GSX (similar to VR-4 but no turbo).

But my reference was to borrowing buddy's Mitsu VR-4 and taking to a rallyrace in Canada. Throttle cable snapped in town the rally was hosted at. Mitsubishi wasn't imported into Canada yet so I couldn't get a replacement before my drive home. I broke ribs and sternum in race so did not want to rig a hand throttle. Instead, I tied off broken cable inside engine compartment at 3/4 throttle and got out on highway. In 5th gear, it was 60 miles/hour. At the border Xing pushed clutch in to slow down and border guard jumped out thinking I was going to make a run for it. Drove all the way home w/ no operating throttle, just shifting.

Now that is a HELL of a story!

Yeah...ribs and sternum broken...no biggie...after the rally car broke down, I went and had a tickling contest with the biggest grizzly in the forest and then I stole his fish.

Driving back to US all busted up was no picnic. Remember sometimes reaching across myself to shift w/ left hand as right arm was holding myself together. Painkillers helped too.

Hey Chad, sorry for threadjack. Have any pictures to post? How is your gearbox? I rebuilt mine w/ Evo3 bits and double syncros. If your gearbox isn't 100% now, may want to invest in the parts now before the parts dry totally up for when you do need to rebuild.

Did you install a battery cut-off switch when you relocated your battery? Nice to have located in reach of driver as precaution or hidden as anti-theft device.

I've got some spares or if you ever need to test a part to determine if one of your's is working properly, PM me here. And in-laws have a shop in Alexandria that do DSM.

Chad's in Hawaii soaking up some sun, but I can help:

Ohhh


Ahhh



Very clean.

Another thing that is cool about VR-4s was the special edition # tags on the dash.

Yeah I've kept the exterior as stock and clean as possible (disregarding the wheels, exhaust and huge ass intercooler of course). Car is a total sleeper unless you a) look under the hood, b) sit in the cockpit, or c) hear it drive by. Just put a new muffler on it and it sounds like sex. 3" piping all the way with that external wastegate and in the upper rpm's it sounds like it's ripping a screaming manatee in half. I'm really happy where the car stands now, it's handling is definitely it's strongest attribute. I've ditched some extra weight and am quite happy with the Whiteline camber and caster control arm bushings. After driving my Saab as a daily for a year now, it's taking some time for me to get used to how the Galant handles at speed, so far so fun.

Also @ prorallycodriver...
-No battery cut off switch, my anti theft device is the car is usually sitting on jackstands.
-Also good to know about the local DSM shop, I do most of the work on the car myself, but somethings I'd rather not eff with some of the time.

*UPDATE*

Threw a couple freeze/core plugs right out of the block due to the head lifting under boost. No permanent damage, just a pain to replace them...so naturally it's upgrade time. Re-Torqued head bolts, pulled engine, and have some upgrades ready to drop in. Removing all AC components for weight reduction, more underhood real estate, and better cooling (condenser blocks radiator). Replacing all 9 freeze plugs (autozone ones) with Mitsu OEM. Mitsu rebuilt transmission with only 20k going in along with brand new ACT 2600, ACT Streetdisc, and ACT XACT Flywheel. Gonna change all gaskets, fluids, neaten up engine bay, and get the car track ready in hopefully less than a month. Big plans and lots of work ahead of me. Pics of current disaster in my garage...

wow dude, that's quite the project you've got going on in your garage.

Damn, that's surprising that you threw some plugs! What compression and boost are you running? What did you torque the head bolts to?

Good luck!

Well I hadn't gotten around to re-torquing the bolts yet (3500 miles) on the rebuilt engine and I upped the boost to about 20 psi (very safe for the supporting mods I'm running) and well she didn't like that at all. Rather than warping the head (which 4G63's hate to do) the pressure is instead routed back into the block and weakest component, the freeze plugs took the pressure. They are the autozone ones so this no doubt didn't help. OEM ones will be more secure...but long story short, 3 of the head bolts were only torqued to 50 ft/lbs where final torque should be 72 ft/lbs. They are all now to spec and will be excited to hold all the engine's fury when I get it back together. Can't wait for the new drivetrain...looking to pick up some serious speed just with that. Full spec sheet to follow. Should easily be making 300-350 at the wheels on pump gas and hopefully weighing in at around 3100 lbs.

Full Spec Sheet (will be in effect after I throw everything back together)

Engine/Fuel Performance:
-Rebuilt 4G63 Engine (Factory Spec) 3K Miles (Currently)
-ETS FMIC (24” x 10” x 3” Bar and Plate)
-ETS 2.5" Intercooler Piping
-Keydiver Stage 3 Chip
-HKS Electronic Valve Controller (HKS EVC EZ)
-Mitsubishi EVO III Big 16G Turbo (Ported by Road Race Engineering)
-Tial 38mm External Wastegate
-RC Racing 550cc Injectors
-Walbro 255hp LPH Fuel Pump
-Aeromotive AFPR
-CHM 0-100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge
-Magnecor KV85 Competition 8.5mm Plug Wires
-NGK BPR7ES Plugs
-Custom Oil Catch Can

Exhaust/Intake:
-Magnaflow High-Flow Cat
-2.5" Mandrel Bent Downpipe
-3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust
-Forza Flat Black Dual 3.5” Muffler
-K&N Performance Intake Filter
-Custom Intake Piping
-482 MAS
-2G Exhaust Manifold (Ported)

Drivetrain/Suspension:
-ACT 2600 Heavy Duty Clutch /ACT Street Disc
-ACT Streetlite Xact Flywheel (Steel)
-KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks
-Whiteline Lowering Springs
-Whiteline Front and Rear Control Arm Bushings
-Ultra Racing Front Strut Tower Bar
-Mitsubishi Factory Rebuilt Transmission w/ ~30k mi
-Short Shifter Kit

Rolling Stock:
Summer:
-17x7 5Zigen Heidfeld Wheels
-Falken Ziex 912s 215-50-17R

Interior:
-HKS Electronic Valve Controller (HKS EVC EZ)
-Palm m100 Datalogger w/ MMCd Software
-HKS Turbo Timer Type-0
-APEXi SAFC
-Autometer Sport Comp Boost Gauge
-Autometer Sport Comp Air/Fuel Gauge
-Autometer Sport Comp Oil Pressure Gauge
-Lotek A Pillar Gauge Pod (2 Gauge)
-Pioneer CD Player
-2 Amps (Trunk Mounted)
-Momo Monte Carlo Steering Wheel (w/ Red Stitching)
-Momo Steering Wheel Hub Adapter
-Ralliart Aluminum Pedals
-Ralliart Aluminum Shift Knob
-Ralliart Floormats
-Leather Shift Boot (w/ Red Stitching)

Exterior:
-JDM Corners

Lubrication:
-Mobil 1 10W30 (Engine)
-Redline Shockproof/MT-90 Mixture (Transfer/Diff)
-Redline MTL/MT-90 Mixture (Transmission)

Weight Reduction:
-Spare Tire and Jack Removed
-Cruise Control Removed
-EGR Equipment Removed
-Air Conditioning Removed
-ABS Deleted/Removed
-Front Bumper Bracket Hacking (for FMIC)

Misc. Performance:
-Non-ABS Conversion
-Optima Yellowtop Battery
-Battery Relocated to Trunk

GVR-4Chad wrote:3 of the head bolts were only torqued to 50 ft/lbs where final torque should be 72 ft/lbs. They are all now to spec and will be excited to hold all the engine's fury when I get it back together.

When I read 50lbs, I seriously went Both heads on the Suby's engines are torqued to 80lbs and then retorqued again after 1k. I know Howard up at Ar Fab use to do 75lbs, but found it wasn't enough with the higher compression / boost motors.

As evidenced by rocket propelled freeze plugs, 50 ft/lbs is not enough to hold her down. Everything is super tighty at 72 ft/lbs now (that's the spec called for in the Hayne's manual). There was definitely some movement since the engine was put in 3500 miles ago (common for rebuilts). Iron engine block = boss. Part's shop copper freeze plug = weak-sauce.