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OK I have had awful clutch stutter for way too long and it's time to address it, and since there is no way I will get it covered under warranty I need to look into options:

1. I know there are adjustments that can be made both at the master cylinder and at the pedal but I've read mixed results from "great fixed it" to "didn't do a thing" anyone here have any experience with these?

2. If I choose to replace I'm really torn over the way to go. The least expensive would be an Exedy OE Replacement, Oakos has them for $239 (no flywheel). Gruppe-s sells a Exedy Stage 1 Organic Clutch Kit with lightened flywheel for $649. However, I know lots of folks have had issues with Excede clutches of late and am thinking I may have to go with an ACT set-up which is $875.

3. Then of course, there's the install. The last clutch install i did was nearly 20 years ago and I had access to a lift.

Any thoughts?

1. I've never tried any of the adjustments either, but I've read that bleeding the clutch slave cylinder can drastically improve engagement/disengagement. A quick trip to scoobymods might be in order (I'm willing to bet the procedure is well documented there.)

2. how light do you want your flywheel? Will it hinder off throttle/partial throttle boost response? You're already one of the lucky ones with a 2.0L that is clearly a Wednesday motor and spools much better than most other 2.0L motors. I guess the question is this: for the cost of a lightened flywheel ($$) vs the cost of resurfacing (.5$) and the potential tuning issues (freak check engine lights, etc) and the even lighter throttle response, is it worth it? Is it going to help your driving habits or style? Is it going to improve the 4k miles a year you put on the car? Are you going to regret not getting a lighter flywheel? Personally, if the OEM combo is holding up under boost, I'd let it eat with an OEM replacement done at a reputable shop. Or, shoot the lock off the wallet and dump a grand or better into a clutch/flywheel solution from ACT.

I'm hoping Sabre will chime in on this point because I know he's gone through a few clutches now (different materials too) and I can't remember if he lightened his flywheel or not.

Personally, I'm plenty happy with the grip, weight, throw and throttle response of the OEM combo. I would consider a lightened flywheel one of those "i'm running out of things to mod" purchases. Especially for a primarily street driven (and carport parked, haha!) car.

3. Everything I've read says a clutch install is absolutely retarded in a Suby. I would think the only way to attack it would be with a lift and a cherry picker. I've heard horror stories about pulling the radiator to shove the engine far enough forward to separate the trans and block. You bought yours in late '01, right? That makes for tired and stubborn fasteners.

But then again I'm becoming older and more timid.

Here is my experiences with various clutches. I'll throw my .02$ for all of them just in case anyone else is thinking of going bigger.

OEM: Um, the stock one
ClutchMasters: I've owned a custom 6 puck FX400 and a FX300 with a FX400 pressure plate and a lightened flywheel.

The 6 puck was a handful. It takes about two weeks to get acquainted with driving the sucker. First gear is the only time you really notice it, changes to any other gears are close to OEM. Be aware, they grab, so if you down shift badly, you are going to do some damage to your engine in an over rev. They can handle a TON of power (500+whp) and not blink an eye. The biggest problem is that they will wear quickly in stop and go traffic. They rate it at 170% increase in capacity over OEM.

The FX300 (with accessories above) is what I consider a perfect combo for a car with a decent amount of power. You have the OEM feel, with the gripping power to hold 450WHP. It's very linear in feel and not heavy at all. The lighten flywheel allows the engine to rev easily, which should, in theory, free up some HP. You do need to tune a couple of things generally since the rev's will drop quicker. This is especially prevalent when you are dropping from high revs (5k+) or you have the A/C on. They rate it at 110% increase in capacity over OEM.

Here are the ClutchMasters with MSRP pricing: Here is the Excedy OE one for $150
Here is the Clutchmasters one for $449
Here is the Clutchmasters with the flywheel for $845

Oh ya... I'd be willing to try to do the swap, but it is far from easy. Basically you either drop the tranny or pull the motor. I'd shop around to see who would do it for cheapest among the companies we know will do it right!

complacent wrote:1. I've never tried any of the adjustments either, but I've read that bleeding the clutch slave cylinder can drastically improve engagement/disengagement. A quick trip to scoobymods might be in order (I'm willing to bet the procedure is well documented there.)

I've got the write-up and it looks pretty straight forward. I'd need a second (or possibly third) to help. One pumps one pours and catches.

complacent wrote:2. how light do you want your flywheel? Will it hinder off throttle/partial throttle boost response? You're already one of the lucky ones with a 2.0L that is clearly a Wednesday motor and spools much better than most other 2.0L motors. I guess the question is this: for the cost of a lightened flywheel ($$) vs the cost of resurfacing (.5$) and the potential tuning issues (freak check engine lights, etc) and the even lighter throttle response, is it worth it? Is it going to help your driving habits or style? Is it going to improve the 4k miles a year you put on the car? Are you going to regret not getting a lighter flywheel? Personally, if the OEM combo is holding up under boost, I'd let it eat with an OEM replacement done at a reputable shop. Or, shoot the lock off the wallet and dump a grand or better into a clutch/flywheel solution from ACT.

These are the questions I keep asking myself as well. I guess if I'm going to pull the clutch I'd hate to have the opportunity to put a lightened flywheel in and NOT do it. But since Zak's experience I'm a bit gun shy.

complacent wrote:Personally, I'm plenty happy with the grip, weight, throw and throttle response of the OEM combo. I would consider a lightened flywheel one of those "I'm running out of things to mod" purchases. Especially for a primarily street driven (and carport parked, haha!) car.

Yes, "I'm running out of things to mod." I wouldn't even think of doing this under normal circumstances, but given that I may replace the clutch anyway. Also, starting in August, I'll be joining the commuting community! At least for the foreseeable future.

complacent wrote:3. Everything I've read says a clutch install is absolutely retarded in a Suby. I would think the only way to attack it would be with a lift and a cherry picker. I've heard horror stories about pulling the radiator to shove the engine far enough forward to separate the trans and block. You bought yours in late '01, right? That makes for tired and stubborn fasteners.

I'm with you there, I'm thinking of going to the pros for this one.

complacent wrote:But then again I'm becoming older and more timid.

I think I'm actually well ahead of you here.

The Excede for $150 is a steal! I think we need to promote you to "Chief Deal Master" over me and Zak.

I'm not worried about the clutch "handling the power." To be honest, I'd rather kill multiple clutches than take-out the tranny.
I don't think it was my "power" that caused my clutch to stutter as it is a known problem throughout the 02-03 WRX community.

lol, I wouldn't go that far You all are kings in the department and I am but a humble internet searcher!

I too had the clutch shudder, and it was fixed under warranty. They put in a softer pressure plate and clutch material. Never had any slipping issues with that setup, but also never launched it except for 5 or so times in 6 years. Mind you this is also pulling the trailer with ~700 lbs of Jason's crap, er stuff and fully winding it out in 1 & 2.

So for that, the weaker stock clutch can hold up, but I'm down ~ 40 - 50 hp/tq compared to you.

I felt almost no noticable clutch engagement difference when the RA clutch went in. Completely stock feeling and 40% more tq holding capability.

With the STi fw (~13lbs, iirc)I did notice more immediate throttle response and precise rev matching. That took a bit of time to get used to after 8 years of the stock fw.

Of all the things that P_tuning did wrong, the tranny/ clutch/ FW replacement went very well for $720.

Good to know.
Did you get the cylinder misfires under control?

drwrx wrote: Did you get the cylinder misfires under control?

That's the big, ugly side effect that I would be most worried about. Bring on the seasonal dyno-tunes or become proficient yourself. (that's how i'm picturing it in my own head)

It either learned its way around, or it was water injection issues. Either way, no problems that laster for more than a week or so.

But I think that between the lighter fw, the sticking stepper motor in the IACSV, and the stock can messing with my off throttle response, I have "uncepecified idle control event" CELs.

drwrx wrote:I'd rather kill multiple clutches than take-out the tranny.

I am right there w/ you. I went w/ an exedy stage 1 organic on my forester. I loved it...it handled 40% more torque than the stock clutch. I switched to it when my stock '04 clutch started slipping in 5th. I loved the stock-like feel and never had any issues w/ it.

I will be going w/ the same type of clutch for my '08 when the stocker decides to give out w/ my 300/300 at the wheels.