DCAWD.com

I would like to have a meet up to help me install my stage II goodies:

STI Uppipe
Bosal Shorty DP
Water Temp. Oil Pressure
XPT Stage II software (need someone to bring the cable and knowledge)
Spark plugs


Location: Ft Myer Hobby shop
Date: Jan 17th or 24th
Time: 11am

I will provide pizza and drinks for your help and knowledge.

you do realize that January 12, 2009 is a Monday, right?

you wrapping the DP? if you buy the materials I'll be glad to do it for you but I need to do it at least a week before to give it time to cure. ask around: I'm a wrapper.

If it's on the weekend, I will try my best to be there!

Sorry I was looking at Jan 08....it will be the 10th.

I coated the DP with VHT flameproof, so I don't think I need to have it wrapped, but thanks for the offer.

goob_os101 wrote:I coated the DP with VHT flameproof.

As long as it's the 1300-2000 degree stuff that will work fine. I've used it numerous times and it works great.
Since you only have the shorty down-pipe I would recommend that you cure it in the oven before you install it.
Bake it at 250 degrees for 30 minutes.
Let cool for 30 minutes
Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes
Let cool for 30 minutes
Bake at 600 degrees for 30 minutes (most ovens don't go this high so just set it as high as it goes, mine was 550)
Let cool for 30 minutes.

The pipe is going to get banged up a bit when you install it, and if it's cured before it goes on, the coating will hold-up better.

Also, if your going to do the up-pipe you should probably think "headers" as well. They are one mod I always push; they make big power gains (12 whp, 16 lbft on average), lower EGTs and allow better flow at high boost with very little trade off. What's not to love!

You can also find them cheap on ebay: ($100 shipped)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-03-04 ... 3062wt_961

I have installed this set twice now and have found them to be worth getting.
I will be getting a set myself come spring.

I coated mine, then wrapped it, then coated the wrap.

There is a reason most stoves have a locking mechanism associated with the "clean" mode. The oven will get much hotter than the max temp on your dial. Problem on the ones that I have played with, the clean cycled locks the door and you can't open it untill the temps have come back down, or worse, it is on a timer.

Just saying that you can turn your stove to "11". You just have to decide if you want to...

drwrx wrote:

goob_os101 wrote:I coated the DP with VHT flameproof.

As long as it's the 1300-2000 degree stuff that will work fine. I've used it numerous times and it works great.
Since you only have the shorty down-pipe I would recommend that you cure it in the oven before you install it.
Bake it at 250 degrees for 30 minutes.
Let cool for 30 minutes
Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes
Let cool for 30 minutes
Bake at 600 degrees for 30 minutes (most ovens don't go this high so just set it as high as it goes, mine was 550)
Let cool for 30 minutes.

The pipe is going to get banged up a bit when you install it, and if it's cured before it goes on, the coating will hold-up better.

Also, if your going to do the up-pipe you should probably think "headers" as well. They are one mod I always push; they make big power gains (12 whp, 16 lbft on average), lower EGTs and allow better flow at high boost with very little trade off. What's not to love!

You can also find them cheap on ebay: ($100 shipped)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-03-04 ... 3062wt_961

I have installed this set twice now and have found them to be worth getting.
I will be getting a set myself come spring.

The VHT flame proof is 2000 deg.

I did some research on the ebay headers and they are said to crack.

goob_os101 wrote:I did some research on the ebay headers and they are said to crack.

I'd be shocked if that were true. Where did you get that info? I'd like to see that post. I'd also have to see a lot of reports before I bought into it. Folks made the same claim about the Borla headers and I've run the 1st gen set on my car for over 4 years. Also, be careful of random posts if 1,000 of these were sold and 4 people wrote in about "cracking" that's less than a .25% failure rate. For $100 I'd take that bet.

There is little to no stress on the welds at the flanges of headers (which is where 90+% of all cracks will appear. The big area where I would expect headers to crack would be at the up-pipe, but 99 times out of 100 it's the up-pipe that cracks.

here are a few examples:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpos ... stcount=16

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpos ... stcount=39

Both of those are the megan racing style 1-piece headers, which I wouldn't recommend getting as the install is difficult.
However, Matt has had a set on his Legacy for 3 years now and
I also wouldn't recommend buying pre-coated headers unless I knew who did them. Going cheap with commercial coating is usually bad ju-ju.

The ones I'm recommending are the two piece design.
They are also a fairly easy install (the o2 sensor being the only difficulty)

something like this than:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exhaust- ... ccessories

Yep, that's the design.
Get the cheapest you can find.
You already have a catless up-pipe, so you don't need the up-pipe but the diameter of the two will be different. Don't worry, there won't be any leak issues.
If you do decide to get the up-pipe, pay the extra $10 and get the flex up-pipe.

Mr Kleen wrote:I'm a wrapper.

Hi, sorry, don't mind me. I'm just here for the bad jokes!

goob_os101 wrote:something like this then:

nevermind...
I wrote a big long post about how this was a three bolt up-pipe flange and how much of a bitch it is.

I was looking at the wrong picture.

Only thing I would say is that without a flex section in the up pipe, you run the risk of developing a crack at the collector joint. I have one there and these were high quality good rep pieces. Time temp and stress at that point don't work too well.

zaxrex wrote:Only thing I would say is that without a flex section in the up pipe, you run the risk of developing a crack at the collector joint. I have one there and these were high quality good rep pieces. Time temp and stress at that point don't work too well.

Yep, you and Julian and about 200 other folks have had such experiences. There has to be some flex in that area or a crack will happen, it's just a matter of time.

Yep Whenever mine crack again, I'll be going for a set with a flex section (and probably only a two bolt design).

so back on topic now...

Can I get a hand getting to stage II....I needs mo powa...

I will definitely find a weekend to help you out, more than likely after new years (since it's so close, yikes!). Jan 12th looks like it will work right now.

I'll check my calendar. I know there are two weekends in January that are no-goes as well as two in February.
If you decide to do it on a weekend I'm not available, I'll get my Tactrix cable to Julian.

I Will not be in town, the way things are going now, but if I find myself around with an itch to wrench, call me greesy!

Anyone up for the install or should I move it to the end of the month?

I'll talk to the wife tonight to make sure my calender is free!

I'll be down for a couple of hours. I'm in town even...

It looks like I'll have to work, sorry.