DCAWD.com

I hope drwrx forgives me for posting this up about his car, but I was there too.

After three atempts and I forgot how many hours, we got Darrin's STi based TMIC water sprayer working with the UTEC. We overkilled the protection on it with two seperate fuse lines, a kill switch, relay, and three seperate ground wires but after all this trouble, we only wanted to save components from getting fried.

Short version, the staf at TurboXS doesn't know the UTEC spare solenoid operation from their elbows. One guy said that I could send in the "broken" UTEC for raplacement (not broken, he just doesn't know how it works) and then one of the "Top Dogs" over there told me to use the UTEC to short a direct conection from the batter (killing the UTEC).

Things learned. Fog light switch housings are push and hold, where all other dash mounted switches (except Canadian heated seat switches) are momentary switches which activate a separate timer or module. The UTEC is a switch to ground 2 amp rating, regardless of what the TurboXS tech in MD say. You can short the fog light ilumination circuit to ground for a week and only blow three 10 amp fuses. Using the Clock power leads to test an English voltmeter will kill your interior lights, ilumination lights, radio, security system, and remote door lock systems.

That is all.

...wow

Thanks for the write up on it Zak! BTW, care to write up how you all actually did get it working? I'll throw it up on the main site

sabre wrote:how you all actually did get it working?

^^^What he said, I'm quite curious myself to see what happened. Did you need a relay to trigger the output of the UTEC? And what type switch did you end up using? was it a regular lighted toggle switch? did you have to diode isolate anything? Gotta love those little finger burners, lol

In the end we did it like this.

Mount the pump behind the washer tank.

Take a fog light and STi water sprayer switch apart and use the brown section from the fog light switch to stuff the innards of the STi switch into.

Take vampire tabs and tap the real fog light switch illumination wires and run them to the frankenswitch illum circuit.

Run 12v pos with in-line fuse to the frankenswitch, then to the pos of the pump.

Run the neg of the pump to a relay (or connect it straight to the red lead from the UTEC spare solenoid line if you are going to be operating below 2 amp and trust the UTEC). We split the pump negative into two lines both going to the relay, one to ground the circuit when switched, and the other to govern the relay when the UTEC grounds the other half. We were going to use a 12v LED on the wires to the UTEC, bud didn't have a place visable to mount it. We ended up using another fuse instead of the LED to protect the UTEC.

Collin was right, the UTEC is a switch to ground.

When the STi sprayer switch is depressed the system is "armed". We set the UTEC up to complete the curcuit and start the pump when the TPS reads over 80%. When he sits at a light, he just has to stab the gas to turn on the pump. He is now playing with the off delay time. As it sits now, it sprays for 4 sec after the TPS goes <80%.

Tune baby tune.

VERY cool guys, glad to see it's up and working. Can't wait to see how tangible the real world benefits of it are going to be. Awesome work dudes.

Darrin called today and the results of the road tune with the IC sprayer was MASSIVE TIMING addition.

Thank God for some benifit coming from that amount of work.

so now I know who to call when I'm ready to rig my water spray system!

Wow, I'm really shocked it made that much of a difference, but really happy that it did!

Damnit!!!!

Only in circles like these can I buy a brand new car...And be the slow one...

hahaha, guess I've got some catching up to do

bluscooby23 wrote:Damnit!!!!

Only in circles like these can I buy a brand new car...And be the slow one...

hahaha, guess I've got some catching up to do

lol, somehow... I don't think that it will take very long