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removed BOV
Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:31 pm
by bdub
ok so i just took off the BOV and reset the ecu.... but now it seems the turbo lag is 10 times worse then before i started.. and also it seems like either fuel or oil was going thru the lines...am i going to run into more issues b4 this is over?
Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:37 pm
by chicken n waffles
perhaps the ecu has to relearn how to function without releasing all that pressure. (dunno if that's accurate or not... just spitballin')
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:55 am
by Mr Kleen
resetting the ECU should resolve any issues directly related to the BOV. a little oil in the lines is normal, gas is NOT. sounds like you've got something else going that isn't directly related to the BOV (unless the install and/or removal was really borked up). I've never installed or removed a BOV so this is about as much help as I can offer in this situation.
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:17 am
by gsx-lex
So are yo running without a BOV? Am I missing something here?
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:25 am
by chicken n waffles
he removed his aftermarket bov and (i'm assuming) is running with the stock bpv.
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:53 am
by zaxrex
If he did not replace it with the stock one, then there would be so much fuel being dumped, who knows where it would go.
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 10:51 am
by Mr Kleen
I didn't consider the possibility that you didn't reinstall the stock BPV. you did reinstall the stock part, correct?
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 5:14 pm
by bdub
haha yea.. i put the stock part on... lol
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:29 am
by Mr Kleen
bdub wrote:haha yea.. i put the stock part on... lol
this is the internets, crazier things have happened...
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:48 am
by Sabre
Mr Kleen wrote:bdub wrote:haha yea.. i put the stock part on... lol
this is the internets, crazier things have happened...
Ain't that the truth!!!
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:56 am
by gsx-lex
Can you log the car?
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:42 am
by bdub
gsx-lex wrote:Can you log the car?
i'm still a noob at heart... and don't know what this means
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:57 am
by Sabre
It means can you log the data coming from the various sensors in the car to see what's actually going on
Depending on your engine management (or if it's a reflash), you can log through either a serial cable or a ODBII->USB/serial cable.
It's very helpful when you're trying to figure out problems like this.
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:02 pm
by bdub
umm yea
... i'll proly need a period of instruction
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:53 pm
by Mr Kleen
bdub wrote:umm yea
... i'll proly need a period of instruction
and a laptop and cable.
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:54 pm
by chicken n waffles
bdub wrote:gsx-lex wrote:Can you log the car?
i'm still a noob at heart... and don't know what this means
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:56 pm
by Bluestreak2006
^^^ Thats awesome even coming from you Ben.....
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:33 pm
by drwrx
Your laggy feeling may not be boost. If you cleared your your ECU it takes time for it to adjust and relearn it's timing advance. Here is a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset or ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm, and is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower.
Also, it's normal to have a little bit of oil in your lines. Unless there was a great deal of it.