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According to Don Beyer, the burning smell coming from my engine is from the axle boot melting due to the heat from my TurboXS downpipe. Now, I've had the DP (in fact, the whole TBE) on the car for nearly three years but the smell just cropped up this past Saturday.

At any rate, they'll replace the axle boot but I'm worried about it happening again. I'm wondering if wrapping the downpipe will help cool things down a little. So ... several questions:

1) How much does it cost to wrap a DP?

2) Can I do it myself?

3) Can it be done on a DP that's already installed?

4) And finally ... does anyone think this will prevent a new axle boot from melting in the future?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

--Alan

WRXWagon2112 wrote: 1) How much does it cost to wrap a DP?

2) Can I do it myself?

3) Can it be done on a DP that's already installed?

4) And finally ... does anyone think this will prevent a new axle boot from melting in the future?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

--Alan

1.) 20-50$ depending on how much of the DP you want to wrap

2.) Hell ya. I'll help ya out

3.) Depends on how much clearance that you have... I'd say it would be easier if you removed the DP/MP to do it.

4.) It will keep temps where ever you wrap it pretty damn cool, so it should work

damn it, you beat me to it! This would have been my first meaningfull post.

exhaust wrap will definately solve your problem and is very easy to do. Now if you have the money, you could always get it ceramic coated (i believe AGP turbo does it) but just wrapping sohuld be more than enough.

gsx-lex wrote:damn it, you beat me to it! This would have been my first meaningfull post.

lol, it's all good

have you thought about doing some sort of heat wrap on it?

Mr Kleen wrote:have you thought about doing some sort of heat wrap on it?

Someone trying to get their post count up? That's what he said he wanted to do

BTW, you all coming on monday?

cant you send your stuff to jethot if you want? Is it pricey?

Tom Sullivan wrote:cant you send your stuff to jethot if you want? Is it pricey?

Very pricey unfortunately. There are paint on solutions (Darrin has used these) and also you can bake your own on

me = postwhore??? NEVAR!

after reading your post I think I'm going to wrap mine. I may never install it, but it will be wrapped.

tips for wrapping: soak the wrap in water to get it all flexible, wrap it tight, then (if you have a shoe rack for your dryer) put it in the dryer. as the water evaporates it will stiffen up and give you a nice tight wrap.

sabre wrote:

Tom Sullivan wrote:cant you send your stuff to jethot if you want? Is it pricey?

Very pricey unfortunately. There are paint on solutions (Darrin has used these) and also you can bake your own on

Also take a look at Swaintech in Scottsville, NY. They might be able to quote you a better price.

I have 15 steps worth (yes, I did just roll it down the stairs) of DFI 2" exhaust header wrap left over from doing ym header. I can bring it to the meet on Monday if you are going to be there. You can do the wrap on the downpipe while it is on the car but it will be a PITA. My first question is, was it really the downpipe that melted the boot? I have the same DP and have had no issues for two years now. there is no 2nd question, but if you are interested, I can let you give me a deposit on a spare TXS DP that I have so you can wrap it propperly in your own time, or do the paint thing and put it in the oven. When you swap DP, you will get most of you money back (service fee of one bowl of ChilliMac and a beer, includes installation assistance) when you give me your old one.

SWAINTECH ROCKS!!!
Sorry for shouting. Muy grand uncle (?/don't ask) had a problem with his air cooled VW engine starting the wood rafters on his island buggy/flatbed monstosity. He sent the exhaust headers to Swaintech for coating. I don't know about any performance increase, but you can put your hand on the exhaust manifold after it has run through a whole tank of gas. It is amazing.

Be prepared for metal fatigue though. It is more of a problem on higher temperature exhaust parts (exhaust manifold), but it will shorten the mechanical life of the part due to thermal stress.

zaxrex wrote:I have 15 steps worth (yes, I did just roll it down the stairs) of DFI 2" exhaust header wrap left over from doing ym header. I can bring it to the meet on Monday if you are going to be there. You can do the wrap on the downpipe while it is on the car but it will be a PITA. My first question is, was it really the downpipe that melted the boot? I have the same DP and have had no issues for two years now. there is no 2nd question, but if you are interested, I can let you give me a deposit on a spare TXS DP that I have so you can wrap it propperly in your own time, or do the paint thing and put it in the oven. When you swap DP, you will get most of you money back (service fee of one bowl of ChilliMac and a beer, includes installation assistance) when you give me your old one.

Zach,

<Homer Simpson>I'm intrigued by your ideas and wish to subscribe to your newsletter.</Homer Simpson> Seriously, please bring the wrap and downpipe to the meet tonight. I think I can spring for a bowl of ChilliMac and a beer. Hopefully I can get everything swapped over quickly.

I think I may have another problem ... a leak in the exhaust. It certainly sounds like it. Maybe another set of ears can help figure this out?

Thanks, everyone, for the ideas and support.

--Alan

a bit off topic but... can an UP and DP install be done in the drive way with the car on ramps? what tools will I need? I think I have finally found access to a driveway and my room mate is getting a set of ramps. I'm going to get some header wrap this week and wrap the DP (the UP has heat shields welded in place).

I did my DP installation (in fact, the whole TBE) in a parking lot at my old townhouse. So yes, at least the DP can be done that way. I have no experience with an uppipe, though.

--Alan

Colin, Jason, Zak and I did my Up/Headers in a parking garage using the "standard tools for a Subaru" ie. a 12mm and a 14mm wrench and some jacks. The Up/Headers take awhile, so plan on a good 4-6 hours. If you want help, just let me know. I've done them twice on my car

If your just going to wrap/coat the down-pipe there are easier ways to spray coat it.

1. Buy some Black Satin. (you can get it in spray from speedwaymotors.com for $20) This stuff is awesome! for some data on it just follow this link:
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/techline/

2. If Black Satin isn't available, look for some VDT 1,500 ceramic coat. Jegs or Summitt Racing will carry it.

Both can be baked in an oven for curing or on the car. However, the down-pipe will have to be removed to be coated.

Remember, this is a downpipe, not headers. The exhaust heat off the down-pipe is significantly less than the header and while it's still HOT it isn't near the 1550 degrees that the header EGTs can be!

first I've heard of this Black Satin. looks like I have a homework assignment... it's either that or wrap.

I used black satin on my headers as well as wrapped.
I used the spay on from speedway motors and cured them in a huge Bar-B-Q grill. I was impressed right from the get go. I was able to pull them out and never felt the heat from the headers. The grill reached nearly 600 degrees, yet the headers were cool to the touch within seconds of pulling them out. After I installed them, I ran the car around for about a 1/2 hour then brought it back put it back on the lift and looked for leaks and any other problems. I was able to touch the wrapped headers with my bare hands.

That being said, I recently helped install a bosal dp that had been coated with VDT 1500 and I was impressed with it's cooling effects as well. It was touchable just a short time after a short but spirited drive.

drwrx wrote: That being said, I recently helped install a bosal dp that had been coated with VDT 1500 and I was impressed with it's cooling effects as well.

I have a Bosal UP & DP to install myself. interesting. I'll either wrap or coat it, I don't think I need to do both. thanks for the info. anybody else have any input?

Hey Alan. I didn't see your post 'till after the meet. I'm going to skip the Lake House festivities and go downd south this weekend. I'll bring back the pipe and maybe we could meet up next week.

Let me know where and when would be a good place for you.

i think i've done at least 4 complete up/dp swaps now... i'm very comfortable with turbo swaps. lemme know if you need help.

colin









it would be five if someone *cough* mrkleen *cough* would figure out his ap issues...

Bosal "shorty" DP before wrap:


DP after wrap, bottom view:


DP after wrap, top view:


once the wrap dries out, I'm going to pull the ties down as snug as possible (again) and then trim the ends. it took a little time but I'm really happy with the results. I didn't think I would use the entire 50' roll but I managed to after all. now for the install party!

That's an excellent wrap job.
It even looks like you layered the wrap so that any consensation won't be trapped by the wrap. Very nice job!

drwrx wrote:That's an excellent wrap job.
It even looks like you layered the wrap so that any consensation won't be trapped by the wrap. Very nice job!

Thanks! I learned a couple tricks that I would be glad to pass on in person (a little difficult to explain). I just tried to get good coverage. ThaDude was a big help. pix don't do it justice.

Nice job Gabe!