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I gave my car some RBF600 brake fluid in March. It has since been ~20K of driving. You think I should change the fluid or wait until later? How long should I run the Motul RBF600? I know it has the most tendency to absorb moisture over time.

sirwilliam wrote:I gave my car some RBF600 brake fluid in March. It has since been ~20K of driving. You think I should change the fluid or wait until later? How long should I run the Motul RBF600? I know it has the most tendency to absorb moisture over time.

well is your pedal mushy? are the brakes not the greatest? i say you may as well. Only this time use ATE blue. its 1/2 the cost of motul and just as good.

for blue. good stuff. cheeeep too. i'd only worry about it if your pedal feels mushy or fades after stopping repetedly. spaz is right on w/ his suggestion.

spazegun2213 wrote:

sirwilliam wrote:I gave my car some RBF600 brake fluid in March. It has since been ~20K of driving. You think I should change the fluid or wait until later? How long should I run the Motul RBF600? I know it has the most tendency to absorb moisture over time.

well is your pedal mushy? are the brakes not the greatest? i say you may as well. Only this time use ATE blue. its 1/2 the cost of motul and just as good.

Not really mushy, brakes are great. Had to really use them this morning b/c I was half awake and not really paying attention. God was watching out for me. I just think that after 20k on racing brake fluid, I should probably trade it out. I know that ATE is good but I go w/ the Motul b/c it has the highest boiling point out there and my brakes produce heat, believe me. I have RacingBrake crossdrilled and slotted stock size rotors, EBC red brake pads and Goodridge SS lines...all to go along w/ the Motul fluid. And yes, the brakes stop twice as fast as stock...or at least feel that way. I think it is from the Ceramic pads biting into my rotors. You can see it but it will take a while for it to wear down so I am not worried. 1000% better than the stock crap.

One more reason to go with blue this time would be so that when you bleed the lines you can see where the Motul stops and the ATE Super Blue begins.

Just so we're on the same page:
Motul RBF600:
Dry Boiling Point - 572°F
Wet Boiling Point - 416°F
$15 per 1/2 litre

ATE Super Blue:
Dry Boiling Point: 536° F
Wet Boiling Point: 392° F
$18 per litre

That seems a very minimal improvement for twice the price.

You understand that the real danger to your fluid is dirt and water absorbsion. If your getting anywhere near the boiling point of either of these fluids on the street you have serious braking issues!

drwrx wrote:One more reason to go with blue this time would be so that when you bleed the lines you can see where the Motul stops and the ATE Super Blue begins.

Just so we're on the same page:
Motul RBF600:
Dry Boiling Point - 572°F
Wet Boiling Point - 416°F
$15 per 1/2 litre

ATE Super Blue:
Dry Boiling Point: 536° F
Wet Boiling Point: 392° F
$18 per litre

That seems a very minimal improvement for twice the price.

You understand that the real danger to your fluid is dirt and water absorbsion. If your getting anywhere near the boiling point of either of these fluids on the street you have serious braking issues!

ding ding ding! we have a winner!

I was going to post this. Motul is not worth 2x the cost of blue. ALL of my racing friends use blue, as do I. When i go and buy 4L of the stuff i dont want to pay for motul, lol.

drwrx wrote:One more reason to go with blue this time would be so that when you bleed the lines you can see where the Motul stops and the ATE Super Blue begins.

Just so we're on the same page:
Motul RBF600:
Dry Boiling Point - 572°F
Wet Boiling Point - 416°F
$15 per 1/2 litre

ATE Super Blue:
Dry Boiling Point: 536° F
Wet Boiling Point: 392° F
$18 per litre

That seems a very minimal improvement for twice the price.

You understand that the real danger to your fluid is dirt and water absorbsion. If your getting anywhere near the boiling point of either of these fluids on the street you have serious braking issues!

I actually don't know anybody that has a temp gauge for their brake fluid. I think other things would start to go if I am getting over 400 degrees. Yes, the ATE is good and cheaper.

Oh, and OG sells ATE for 15$ a L

spazegun2213 wrote:Oh, and OG sells ATE for 15$ a L

www.ogracing.com

Yeah, I know. That is where I get my redline LSP gear oil. Right around the corner from my work. So is MachV and DTM.

Unless you have a temp probe right in the caliper, you are not going to get a brake fluid temp reading. The fluid does not cycle, like oil or coolant.

That being said, I doubt you have even come near the limits of braking on your fluid. Not to sound mean, but if you have not set your pads on fire, then you are not pushing it hard.

You are still withing the DOT3 realm on your fluid if your system is air tight, but I would flush it out with teh blue or gold before taking it to the track.


From my personal experience, don't mess with it unless you have a problem.