Greddy TZ518Z (TD05 8cm 18G) install w/ injectors & upip
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 4:38 pm
I just figured I'd make this official.
Over the weekend of 10/28/06 Me, Zak and my brother-in-law Matt (some of you have met him, he has the red 05 LGT) decided to install the Greddy turbo that had been sitting in my basement for the last year along with the injectors, uppipe and UTEC. What follows is the arduous tale of that endeavor:
First off let me start out by saying that had I known up-front how difficult this install was going to be, I'd have PASSED!
The removal of the TMIC, turbo, up-pipe and down-pipe currently on the car went quite quickly, I was begining to think we'd finish early (my delusions would dissipate quickly).
Next came the injector install which involved removal of the dreaded "green brackets of death" which also came off remarkably easy.
Now for the new injectors. the Ultimate Racing RC 650cc injectors require different clips, which necessitate the injectors to be rewired. As well as the use of a resistor pack which requires leads to be run from the clips to the resistor and back (the stockers are high impedence injectors the RCs low impedence). Zak spent hours with his soldering iron sorting out the massive spaghetti pile of wire for this aspect of the job. Meanwhile, Matt and I tended to the install of the RC injectors which are nearly 1/2" longer than the stock injectors which required us to use a rather unsettling amount of force to bend the fuel rails out and back to get the new injectors in place. Not to mention the fact we had to get longer bolts and nylon spacers to hold them tightly together. A great deal of measuring and a very successful trip to the hardware store were required to get it all matched up. Needlss to say the GBOD were NOT reinstalled. This is where aftermarket fuel rails probably would have come in handy.
The used, but newly wrapped, up-pipe went in with some effort. But nothing too difficult for us to manage. I used Collins trick of cutting the probe and using it for a plug in the temp bung.
As the turbo was going on, our next issue arose. Where do we route the coolant line, since the turbo is oil cooled only? After some debate it was concluded that a straight hose run from the coolant reservoir directly to the block would be best. Unfortunately, I did not have a section of heater hose long enough and by now it was after 8:30 pm and all the stores were closed. It was also very dark quite cold, and we had not eaten. Thus ended day one.
Early sunday morning saw us all back at it with a trip to the auto parts store for the needed hose and other miscellaneous bits. With the hose rerouted and the tubo in plce came our next obstacle, a project ending one at that! It appeared that the previous owner had stripped the threads on the oil input port on the turbo (very bad) and the banjo bolt was destroyed trying to get it to seal. All was not lost as we were able to find both another banjo bolt at Advance Auto parts, as well as a tapping tool to match the tread pitch at the hardware store! Some gingerly turns of the tap and some careful cleaning of shards later we were back in business!
The rest bolted back together without much difficulty (I'll save the tale of the TMIC as some of you have heard it before) and all that was left was to install the UTEC and fire her up and HOPE everything was copacetic.
After dry cranking some oil into the turbo, we decided it was now or never and proceeded to fire her up. She turned over roughly and the idle was anything but smoothe, but she was running! There were no signs or fumes of gas spewing from unseated injectors, no smells of oil gushing from unsealed oil input lines. the only smoke was from the curing of the header wrap on the up-pipe. Suddenly a steady dripping of coolant indicated something was awry. We found the culprit, my new coolant hose had been clamped too far down the neck and was letting coolant by. Sliding the clamp up and letting the car run soon set that right. She was running albeit a bit lopey at idle.
With a quick 9pm run around the neighborhood it became clear that my HKS EVC IV needed to be reprogramed as it was clearly NOT controlling boost as the turbo would quickly spool to 25lbs, but that would done another day. Everything was in, the turbo was spinning, the injectors were spraying and UTEC was managing the works with no drama.
Tuesday I was able to reprogram the EVC with just a few 3rd gear runs, with my low setting at 18lbs and the high at 20lbs.
Now for my impressions:
1. HOLY CRAP! Even at the 18lb setting this turbo pulls like a beast. My motor now doesn't have a high enough redline. At even moderate throttle input first and second gear disappear in a flash. At full throttle, my hand has to stay on the shifter as the car goes through the rev band so quickly. Third gear, which before was such a great long pull gear, now seems short. I only get a brake once I reach 4th. The charts I have seen indicate that this is a 325-330whp turbo on a ej205 with 93 octane at 21psi (dynojet). Based on how it pulls right now I have no reason to doubt those figures.
2. The idle is not right. At 750 RPMs it's very lopey and even feels uneven, especially during cold starts. Once warm thing seem to settle a little but once a fan comes on or any load is put on the alternator, the rough idle reappears. My hope is the UTEC can control the idle setting and I can just raise it a bit. Anywhere above 800-1,000 RPMs and it's just fine. I'm also getting lean condition CELs and cylinder misfire CELs at idle.
3. It's very smooth just driving around, and at mild throttle the turbo responds well and gets out of vacuum quickly. Although there is a bit more lag compared to my ported and clipped vf22, once your on boost, HOLD ON!
4. I'm going to have to be very careful now, as this set-up could clearly be the demise of both my block and transmission.
Over the weekend of 10/28/06 Me, Zak and my brother-in-law Matt (some of you have met him, he has the red 05 LGT) decided to install the Greddy turbo that had been sitting in my basement for the last year along with the injectors, uppipe and UTEC. What follows is the arduous tale of that endeavor:
First off let me start out by saying that had I known up-front how difficult this install was going to be, I'd have PASSED!
The removal of the TMIC, turbo, up-pipe and down-pipe currently on the car went quite quickly, I was begining to think we'd finish early (my delusions would dissipate quickly).
Next came the injector install which involved removal of the dreaded "green brackets of death" which also came off remarkably easy.
Now for the new injectors. the Ultimate Racing RC 650cc injectors require different clips, which necessitate the injectors to be rewired. As well as the use of a resistor pack which requires leads to be run from the clips to the resistor and back (the stockers are high impedence injectors the RCs low impedence). Zak spent hours with his soldering iron sorting out the massive spaghetti pile of wire for this aspect of the job. Meanwhile, Matt and I tended to the install of the RC injectors which are nearly 1/2" longer than the stock injectors which required us to use a rather unsettling amount of force to bend the fuel rails out and back to get the new injectors in place. Not to mention the fact we had to get longer bolts and nylon spacers to hold them tightly together. A great deal of measuring and a very successful trip to the hardware store were required to get it all matched up. Needlss to say the GBOD were NOT reinstalled. This is where aftermarket fuel rails probably would have come in handy.
The used, but newly wrapped, up-pipe went in with some effort. But nothing too difficult for us to manage. I used Collins trick of cutting the probe and using it for a plug in the temp bung.
As the turbo was going on, our next issue arose. Where do we route the coolant line, since the turbo is oil cooled only? After some debate it was concluded that a straight hose run from the coolant reservoir directly to the block would be best. Unfortunately, I did not have a section of heater hose long enough and by now it was after 8:30 pm and all the stores were closed. It was also very dark quite cold, and we had not eaten. Thus ended day one.
Early sunday morning saw us all back at it with a trip to the auto parts store for the needed hose and other miscellaneous bits. With the hose rerouted and the tubo in plce came our next obstacle, a project ending one at that! It appeared that the previous owner had stripped the threads on the oil input port on the turbo (very bad) and the banjo bolt was destroyed trying to get it to seal. All was not lost as we were able to find both another banjo bolt at Advance Auto parts, as well as a tapping tool to match the tread pitch at the hardware store! Some gingerly turns of the tap and some careful cleaning of shards later we were back in business!
The rest bolted back together without much difficulty (I'll save the tale of the TMIC as some of you have heard it before) and all that was left was to install the UTEC and fire her up and HOPE everything was copacetic.
After dry cranking some oil into the turbo, we decided it was now or never and proceeded to fire her up. She turned over roughly and the idle was anything but smoothe, but she was running! There were no signs or fumes of gas spewing from unseated injectors, no smells of oil gushing from unsealed oil input lines. the only smoke was from the curing of the header wrap on the up-pipe. Suddenly a steady dripping of coolant indicated something was awry. We found the culprit, my new coolant hose had been clamped too far down the neck and was letting coolant by. Sliding the clamp up and letting the car run soon set that right. She was running albeit a bit lopey at idle.
With a quick 9pm run around the neighborhood it became clear that my HKS EVC IV needed to be reprogramed as it was clearly NOT controlling boost as the turbo would quickly spool to 25lbs, but that would done another day. Everything was in, the turbo was spinning, the injectors were spraying and UTEC was managing the works with no drama.
Tuesday I was able to reprogram the EVC with just a few 3rd gear runs, with my low setting at 18lbs and the high at 20lbs.
Now for my impressions:
1. HOLY CRAP! Even at the 18lb setting this turbo pulls like a beast. My motor now doesn't have a high enough redline. At even moderate throttle input first and second gear disappear in a flash. At full throttle, my hand has to stay on the shifter as the car goes through the rev band so quickly. Third gear, which before was such a great long pull gear, now seems short. I only get a brake once I reach 4th. The charts I have seen indicate that this is a 325-330whp turbo on a ej205 with 93 octane at 21psi (dynojet). Based on how it pulls right now I have no reason to doubt those figures.
2. The idle is not right. At 750 RPMs it's very lopey and even feels uneven, especially during cold starts. Once warm thing seem to settle a little but once a fan comes on or any load is put on the alternator, the rough idle reappears. My hope is the UTEC can control the idle setting and I can just raise it a bit. Anywhere above 800-1,000 RPMs and it's just fine. I'm also getting lean condition CELs and cylinder misfire CELs at idle.
3. It's very smooth just driving around, and at mild throttle the turbo responds well and gets out of vacuum quickly. Although there is a bit more lag compared to my ported and clipped vf22, once your on boost, HOLD ON!
4. I'm going to have to be very careful now, as this set-up could clearly be the demise of both my block and transmission.
) I'm more or less refering to situations like: