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Hey guys, just purchased a Blitz SUS and figured I'd ask the All Knowing Ones if you suggest I go ahead and install it or should I wait till I get my ECU done this summer? Will it cause me to run lean if I use it without the tune? Thanks....

Short answer, yes. I would recommend waiting until your car can be tuned to compensate for the change in MAF readings.


...but countless people have gotten away with not tuning the car for a while. At the bare minimum do an ECU reset and let the stock EM "learn" the new changes in airflow.

^^^ I'm with Stupid, I mean Colin Intakes are something that definitely need to be tuned for, so you're better off just holding on to it for now, even though I know it's DAMN tempting to put on

Damn tempting you say???
Yes.... OH YES!! lol
Good info as always, I'll just sit and hold it while I watch tv i guess [/quote]

once it warms up you can install the intake and do an ECU reset, like Colin said. it is better to tune for the intake but after the cold weather is gone you should be fine.

I assume by ecu reset you mean unhook the battery, install the intake then reconnect the battery. Not that I was thinking about installing before the tune of course... just asking for my own personal enlightenment...

yeah, that's the easiest way. just leave the battery disconnected for a couple minutes and press the brake pedal a couple times to completely discharge the system. now that it's warm you should be OK with the intake, but i would get EM ASAP.

you ever make it to the HT meets? I can show you my home-brew intake. no tuning necessary.

I've not had the pleasure of Subies and chilli yet but I'm sure I'll make it this spring/summer... I'd love to check out your setup.

GeneralGrievous wrote:I'd love to check out your setup.

ghetto fabulous

Mr Kleen wrote:

GeneralGrievous wrote:I'd love to check out your setup.

ghetto fabulous

Another for the quotes list!

too funny

Yeah that did come out sounding like a line from "Hatchback Mountain" lol

GeneralGrievous wrote:"Hatchback Mountain"

I know we have some funny MFs here, we need to start on a script. we could film it and post it on teh int3rw3b!!!1!

If you plan on resetting the ECU (remove negetive battery terminal, press brake pedal is the easiest) here is a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Sadly this doesn't work very well for those with EBCs, like me, as an EBC will allow boost to build well beyond the 2-5psi at partial throttle.

Thanks man...

I do have the feeling I'm going to have to read your post several times with an interpreter to fully comprehend it lol

I feel my hatsize growing as we speak....

What? You no speaka da "Ignition Advance Multiplier" english too good?

Don't get too hung up on the language. Simply put, install the intake, warm the car up (a few minutes at idle are fine), while staying off boost find an open road, get into 3rd gear and try to maintain 2,500 RPMs or so with boost between 2-4 psi for about 5 seconds. That's it.

If your concerned about whether your car will have issues with your intake, try this after your ECU "Ignition Advance Multiplier" reset. Do a quick sprint in 3rd gear from about 2000 RPMs to near redline and pay close attention. If your acceleration felt smooth before, but now seems a bit lumpy your ECU is having some difficulty and you may want to try resetting the ECU and letting it set the ignition advance multiplier in it's own slow way, or waiting on the intake until you can be tuned for it. If you hear what sounds like BBs rattleing in a coffee can, get off boost immediately, go straight home and remove the intake!
Very bad juju!

drwrx wrote:If you hear what sounds like BBs rattleing in a coffee can, get off boost immediately, go straight home and remove the intake!
Very bad juju!

x1000^100

I shudder to think what that "BB's in a coffee can" sound might actually be caused by...

GeneralGrievous wrote:I shudder to think what that "BB's in a coffee can" sound might actually be caused by...

Uncontrolled or unintended combustion... In other words "engine knock"

In other words - buy a new motor if left unchecked.

It's a pretty big deal, but quite easy to tune around.