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Just looking for some advise. Every other week (200~ miles), the nuts on the driver side of my headers start to come loose. The two on the outside stay relatively snug, but the inside one spins freely. I've used loctite blue every time I tighten them up, but they still come loose. I was thinking about picking up some lock washers, but wanted to see what everyone else recommended. Thank you for your help.

a stronger loctite? maybe install them with an impact gun?

Holy crap! What are you torquing them to?

A) Having them come loose is a much better problem then not being able to get them off.
B) If you use an impact gun, you won't hurt a thing. I do it all the time.

snaab wrote:If you use an impact gun, you won't hurt a thing. I do it all the time.

Agree, if you have a place you take your car to for oil changes (one you trust) next time you have the oil changed ask them to torque them down for you.

The fact that the loctite isn't working is a bit distirbing though.

Thanks for the help guys. I don't have an impact gun, but I do have access to the auto shop on base. I can swing by there one day after work and borrow theirs.

I'd reccomend a new stud and nut. Sounds like the threads are degraded. If there isn't enough thread loctite is useless.

thermobox wrote:I'd reccomend a new stud and nut. Sounds like the threads are degraded. If there isn't enough thread loctite is useless.

I haven't pulled the stud out of the block yet, but that could be causing my problem. I need to do an oil change soon and can check it out at the same time.

What temp do the headers get up to?

Looking at the tech data on locktite blue 242 the Service Temperature is -65°F (-54°C) to 300°F (149°C). Both the green and red have the same service temperature as the blue.
I would at least replace the nut or swap it with one that has not been coming off to see if the problem follows the nut or the stud.

moxnix wrote:What temp do the headers get up to?

Looking at the tech data on locktite blue 242 the Service Temperature is -65°F (-54°C) to 300°F (149°C). Both the green and red have the same service temperature as the blue.
I would at least replace the nut or swap it with one that has not been coming off to see if the problem follows the nut or the stud.

I'm not sure what the temps are on the outside. I should have a few extra nuts floating around, but if not I can try to swap it with one on the passenger side and see what happens.

Thanks for the help everyone!

moxnix wrote:What temp do the headers get up to?

Looking at the tech data on locktite blue 242 the Service Temperature is -65°F (-54°C) to 300°F (149°C). Both the green and red have the same service temperature as the blue.
I would at least replace the nut or swap it with one that has not been coming off to see if the problem follows the nut or the stud.

lol, I was just about to say this!

Blue is not good for headers. The outside can easily approach 1200-1400F if they are uncoated and you are under boost for mid to long periods.

Replace the nut/bolt with a 8+ and torque the bitch down good. It should stay

Thanks for the help everyone. I was a little afraid to put a ton of force into them, but after the comments about the impact gun, I tightened them down with an 18 inch breaker bar. I'll see what happens over the next few weeks.

So stupid question, but what is a 8+ nut/bolt?

In my short time as a tech, I've quickly learned that things (generally) not nearly as fragile as you think.

Best tool = B.F.H.

HappyIdiot wrote:So stupid question, but what is a 8+ nut/bolt?

Take a look at the top of any bolt and you will see a number. That number refers to the types of metals used in it's construction and its tensile strength. Most subaru bolts I have found to be 8.8 . Check out this chart. The basic rule of thumb is that anything over 8 will not rust and is damn strong At 12.9, you'll probably break a bone before you break the bolt!

snaab wrote:In my short time as a tech, I've quickly learned that things (generally) not nearly as fragile as you think.
Best tool = B.F.H.

SO true. I remember the first time I worked on my car, I was SO careful. Since working on the Bronco, I take a much firmer/harder hand to things.... or even a Sawzall

snaab wrote:In my short time as a tech, I've quickly learned that things (generally) not nearly as fragile as you think.

Best tool = B.F.H.

These words are not suitable for viewing by DR WRX.
Also remember that the block is aluminum. If you BFH on it, you could pull the threads when the stud bottoms out. Just ask Julian how deep a cut in an aluminum intake pipe can be made by a simple steel band clamp.

On another note, since this is a header stud, there is no bolt head to look at the rating. Even they are way expensive, i would trust Subaru supply chain for quality of materials over "bargain studs" from Auto Quest Boys. That is if you are worried that much about the thing. Replacing the stud and bolt will fix your problem. Getting a no-brand nut off a no-brand stud in 5 years without busting it is another issue.