I JUST GOT DYNO'ED!!!!!

2.0, 2.5, NA, FI, it's all good in here

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ian
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I JUST GOT DYNO'ED!!!!!

Post by ian »

:D Tune was done by Toan from P-Tuning

Base w/o UTEC
HP 220.5
TQ 213.1

Base UTEC TXS stg2 map
HP 235.1
TQ 240.6

Final
HP 253
TQ 263.3

PSI looks to be 16.8 (just right below 17 on the graph)
I dont have a scanner, but I can fax to whoever wants to post it :)

Engine Mods:
TXS UTEC
TXS FMIC
TXS intake
TXS downpipe w/ adapter
JIC Magic Spartan Type2 catback (3" with 2.5" taper at the dp)
ZeroSports intake pipe
Last edited by ian on Wed Jul 11, 2007 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ian
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Post by ian »

n/m i just took a picture of it :) came out fine

Base w/o UTEC
Image
Base UTEC TXS Stage 2 map
Image
Final
Image
A/F
Image
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zaxrex
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Fun, isn't it?

Post by zaxrex »

Notice how the peaks in the AFR coincide with a positive derivative on your HP & TQ? Throw some water in the mix and shift things to the left and up. let that 300hp powerplant of your STi shine!

How'd you like the shop and guys?
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drwrx
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Post by drwrx »

Nice looking curve, good usable power. I assume that is your AFR line on the bottom of the last graph. It hovers right around 11 to 1 which is pretty safe. Although I don't know what kind of timing advance your running, I would say that's a very good tune. Water/Alky injection could surely give you another 20 whp/ftlbs.

There is one thing that drives me nuts about our cars. Don't get me wrong, I love WRXs and STI's but I hate the TD04 and the VF39. Just look at the drop in power after 5850 RPMs. That's not from timing being pulled, it's not from an overly rich mixture, that is just the turbo giving up! A TD06 20G and some 750 injectors and that baby could hit 330+ whp on pump gas. It begs the question, why does Subaru even bother with an egine that will spin at over 7,000 RPMs when your just loosing power in the last 1,000+ RPMs?

It should also be said that P-Tuning's dyno is clearly a low-reading dyno. Your base numbers were 220 whp / 213 ftlbs with a FMIC, intake and TBE. That should have been good for 260-270 whp / ftlbs on a dynojet, and around 300 whp/ 320 ftlbs tuned. I'm curious what my 300 whp / 290 ftlb (dynojet) wagon would do there.
Last edited by drwrx on Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Sabre »

Congrats Ian!

Just one question: How does it FEEEEL?
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Post by complacent »

Every time I decide to post in one of these threads, The good Dr. pretty much covers every point or issue I can ever think of, :oops: any many I wouldn't have thought of!

Congrats Ian!
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ian
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Post by ian »

thanks mucho guys!! the shop and the guys there are simply amazing! very informative shop and thorough procedures, i love it! +12356648790

the car FEEELS very good! bom chika wah wah!~! its a night and day difference!! esp my torque (213 to 263) OH MY PORNO IT PULLS!! next vinny's meet we're doin ride alongs! my car's not as fast as julians though, so don't set ur bars too high ! :)

btw, when I got tuned it was like... 90+ degrees outside... that coulda been a factor too, im just happy about the percentage gains from baseline! so next up is pump, injectors, and FPgreen ! ... or maybe something rotated? :)
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drwrx
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Post by drwrx »

ian wrote:btw, when I got tuned it was like... 90+ degrees outside... that coulda been a factor too
Heat does make a difference especially on turbo charged cars.
ian wrote:so next up is pump, injectors, and FPgreen ! ... or maybe something rotated? :)
I've said it before and I'll say it again. There is no point in going rotated now that you have a good amount of cash sunk into a FMIC, intake and downpipe. All of that will either have to be replaced or seriously modified to work with a rotated set-up, and you will also need a new set of headers and up-pipe as well. If your looking for between 350 and 400 whp on pump gas, you can get that without going rotated. A TD06 20G, FPGreen, FPRed, Helix RR500, Frank 50, Frank 60, Frank 35, SZ49, SZ55, SZ60, Blouch Dominator 1, 2, & 3 can all reach those levels without the extra effort and cost that is involved with going rotated. Now if you wanted 450 whp on pump gas and were just going to start with a stock STI than going with one of the $3,600 GT35R kits from Ultimate Racing would be a good choice. But as it stands, you could just drop $999 on a Helix RR500 or a TD06 20G for around 350whp. Or $1,399 on an FPRed, Frank 60 or Frank 35 (plus a 3" inlet hose) and hit 400whp.

It's your car, your goals, your time and your money. Just think it through so your not wasting any of them.
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Post by sirwilliam »

I would stay away from Gruppe-s and its products. I have only heard bad things from them as far as people never getting their stuff, never hearing back from them, and terrible customer service...but it is your choice.
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Post by chicken n waffles »

congrats ian! :drive:
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ian
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Post by ian »

heh, i was thinking rotated cuz it looks cool :) but my goals are actually just a solid 350whp give or take. I'm definitely going green but the real question is EWG or IWG ... so plans are :

green
modified stock injectors
pump

AND

grimmspeed crosspipe and txs uppipe + wrap headers

OR

APS equal length + uppipe combo with wrap :)



i'm just dreaming right now though, all plans will continue next year. I've spent too much already for this year =/
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ian
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Post by ian »

yah i heard some bad about gruppe-s. I really wanted an s202 wing and they were the only vendors to sell them but now they're out of production and i'm out of luck =/ everytime someone in the classifieds popout with the wing, they time it just right that i've got funds set to go somewhere else =( incredible
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Post by Phibs »

They better be shipping my stuff.....
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Post by drwrx »

ian wrote:APS equal length + uppipe combo with wrap :)
I'd say pick-up a set of Perrin equal length headers ($739) over the APS ($995). The gains from both are almost exactly identical.
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Post by Phibs »

NOoOOOOoOooo!!!!!!! BOXER RUMBLE GOOD HONDA BAD!
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Post by Kyle@KR-TFab »

Congrats Ian. I see you still live out in the middle of nowhere :D
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