nice numbers, and i think those were on jeffs road dyno.
Also, if you stay with the vf39 only these things will give you that much power.
1) colder plugs
2) ECBS (to keep the boost up)
you really dont need anything else as you are already spinning that turbo about as fast as you want to without meth/water.
a larger TMIC will get your air colder, but not enough to make a difference. Injectors will allow you to run a little more boost, but then again with the stock BCS you cant keep the boost, so you are not even going to use the larger injectors.
Id talk to jeff about what you want as he knows how to get ever last HP out of these motors.
Road dyno after mods and a road tune
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spazegun2213
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zaxrex
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Some of the nice things about water/meth injection on a stock turbo is that you can:
1) use it to decrease your injector duty cycle. Saves you from having to run bigger injectors when you don't have to while sticking with your '39. God for that extra 10-15% wiggle room to keep you safe.
2) if you do get an aftermarket boost solenoid, you can run the turbo outside the "normal" efficiency range, and allow the water to bring the density back down. This is good if you do switch out headers as your power graphs will shift to the right.
3) you can use crap gas and increase your fuel economy. Water can be used for power, but also for economy, emissions control, and keeping the combustions chambers cleaner.
Of course, those are just my experiences.
1) use it to decrease your injector duty cycle. Saves you from having to run bigger injectors when you don't have to while sticking with your '39. God for that extra 10-15% wiggle room to keep you safe.
2) if you do get an aftermarket boost solenoid, you can run the turbo outside the "normal" efficiency range, and allow the water to bring the density back down. This is good if you do switch out headers as your power graphs will shift to the right.
3) you can use crap gas and increase your fuel economy. Water can be used for power, but also for economy, emissions control, and keeping the combustions chambers cleaner.
Of course, those are just my experiences.
Patience is the ability to idle your motor when you feel like stripping your gears
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Phibs
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zaxrex
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Some run a Shurflow pump (like what is found in CoolingMist, Snow Performance, Devil's Own...) Setup example for DIY here.
If you like smaller and more elegant designs, the Aquamist piston pumps are pretty cool. That is what I have all my experience with.
As far as how to control the setup, you can use a switch that is manually activated. You can also go for a pressure activated switch that comes on at a set point. The Eddlebrock old Verajection kits can be dialed in to regulate the flow. You can also get RPM based switches that are used in dreg racing to stage your injection with actual valves. Aquamist has several levels of controller circuitry; FiA2, MF2, DDS3, pressure switch...
I think it depends on how far you want to push it and what your goals/budjet is like. You can go with a $200 setup, or a $1200 setup.
If you like smaller and more elegant designs, the Aquamist piston pumps are pretty cool. That is what I have all my experience with.
As far as how to control the setup, you can use a switch that is manually activated. You can also go for a pressure activated switch that comes on at a set point. The Eddlebrock old Verajection kits can be dialed in to regulate the flow. You can also get RPM based switches that are used in dreg racing to stage your injection with actual valves. Aquamist has several levels of controller circuitry; FiA2, MF2, DDS3, pressure switch...
I think it depends on how far you want to push it and what your goals/budjet is like. You can go with a $200 setup, or a $1200 setup.
Patience is the ability to idle your motor when you feel like stripping your gears