heres my logs from earlier
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heres my logs from earlier
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... mE2bWVXUFE
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 093UlBDRlE
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... FhCZXdIWnc
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 2FqNjNWcmc
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 093UlBDRlE
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... FhCZXdIWnc
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 2FqNjNWcmc
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- drwrx
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
You logs look pretty good.
1.The timing is aggresive but not overly so.
2. Your boost response is quick and stable. You never even touch 80% wastegate duty cycle, so you could push your boost more if you want, just not at the upper revs.
3. I think your Boost Pressure actual (psi) and your Manifold Relative Pressure (Corrected) (psi) are reversed. I doubt you are boosting at 32.36 psi at 3,680 rpms.
4. There looks to be a little bit of Fine Learning Knock Correction in the same spots on all the logs around 3,100 to 3,300 rpms and again at 5,400 rpms and up. It appears to get worse in each successive run. Heat soak perhaps? That may not be an issue, I'll let Julian speak to that as his knowledge far exceeds mine.
5. Are you using a wide-band? Your AFRs are a stable 11.14 from 3,200 rpms all the way to redline.
6. Your injectors are at 98% at 6,340 rpms. That being the case I would avoid trips to 7,000 rpms at WOT, especially if you increase your boost. You may see some lean run conditions. Bad JuJu that.
7. All your logs start at 3,000 rpms. I would love to see one that starts at 2,000 or so to see the timing and boost ramp-up. That's just me though.
Again, take what I say with a big grain of salt, I am by no means an expert.
1.The timing is aggresive but not overly so.
2. Your boost response is quick and stable. You never even touch 80% wastegate duty cycle, so you could push your boost more if you want, just not at the upper revs.
3. I think your Boost Pressure actual (psi) and your Manifold Relative Pressure (Corrected) (psi) are reversed. I doubt you are boosting at 32.36 psi at 3,680 rpms.
4. There looks to be a little bit of Fine Learning Knock Correction in the same spots on all the logs around 3,100 to 3,300 rpms and again at 5,400 rpms and up. It appears to get worse in each successive run. Heat soak perhaps? That may not be an issue, I'll let Julian speak to that as his knowledge far exceeds mine.
5. Are you using a wide-band? Your AFRs are a stable 11.14 from 3,200 rpms all the way to redline.
6. Your injectors are at 98% at 6,340 rpms. That being the case I would avoid trips to 7,000 rpms at WOT, especially if you increase your boost. You may see some lean run conditions. Bad JuJu that.
7. All your logs start at 3,000 rpms. I would love to see one that starts at 2,000 or so to see the timing and boost ramp-up. That's just me though.
Again, take what I say with a big grain of salt, I am by no means an expert.
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- Bicycle
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
Yea I was going to have julian tune my car and might possibly have him do it tonight at the meet, but i talked to my tuner who looked over it and sent me a new revised map just havent had the time to flash it over today yet. The Boost pressure actual is whatever it is minus 14.65 for atmosphereic pressure. I hit max of 18 psi. I'm not using a wide band stock narrow band, and from what I was told the injector duty cycle is a little off from being accurate i guess it can reach up to 110%, but this new map should have 93-95% max. I'm fine with where I'm at considering im only stage 1 atm I'm just trying to reduce knock and my idc.
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- Sabre
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
Finally had a chance to look at this ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
The timing is aggressive, but you don't seem to be getting any knock. The IAM multiplier is staying at 1, so your timing seems to be dead on. The fine knock correction is fine too. I'd be tempted to raise the timing more![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Depending on how responsive you want the car to be, you can up the waste gate duty so that boost comes on faster. Some people want the gradual boost curve, others want power ASAP. I've tuned for both and the results can be very different depending on what the person wants!
I would love to throw a wide band on your car to see where your AFR's are. I'm guessing you are much richer than that minimum reading.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
The timing is aggressive, but you don't seem to be getting any knock. The IAM multiplier is staying at 1, so your timing seems to be dead on. The fine knock correction is fine too. I'd be tempted to raise the timing more
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Depending on how responsive you want the car to be, you can up the waste gate duty so that boost comes on faster. Some people want the gradual boost curve, others want power ASAP. I've tuned for both and the results can be very different depending on what the person wants!
I would love to throw a wide band on your car to see where your AFR's are. I'm guessing you are much richer than that minimum reading.
Sabre (Julian)
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92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
![Image](http://forums.dcawd.com/images/JAZ/Walking.gif)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
yea definitely the stock narrow band blows even within its range its way off, I'm going to flash the new map over after work and see what I get out of it. Ill bring the results with me tonight.
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- drwrx
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
I agree. The timing starts out really sharp (36 deg. @ 3,000 RPMs) but drops significantly (It's down to 12 deg. by 3,600 RPMs). While that looks to be full boost, the timing starts to climb again while the boost doesn't really taper-off significantly.Sabre wrote:I'd be tempted to raise the timing more.
Perhaps pump up the wastegate duty cycle as well. At least until 5,500 RPMs or so.
I'd offer mine-up, but I haven't seen it in a while.Sabre wrote:I would love to throw a wide band on your car to see where your AFR's are. I'm guessing you are much richer than that minimum reading.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
I gave it back to you, didn't I?
Sabre (Julian)
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92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
![Image](http://forums.dcawd.com/images/JAZ/Walking.gif)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
- drwrx
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
I believe the Zak man has it.
I'll look when I get home.
If I find it I'll bring it tonight.
I'll look when I get home.
If I find it I'll bring it tonight.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
This thread is unfortunately making me very curious to find out how much power I'm missing by using just the TP OTS stage 2 map.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
http://www.daddysscp.com/product_p/mdsh08.htm
Found it, read some good reviews on it too, think I'm gonna pull the trigger on this one but I'm also going to get it coated. Don't want any more heat soak!
Found it, read some good reviews on it too, think I'm gonna pull the trigger on this one but I'm also going to get it coated. Don't want any more heat soak!
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
I was thinking of this:
http://www.unionperformance.com/08-11-s ... up-pipe-3/
I know, they call it an up-pipe, but for $70 it's probably worth sending an e-mail to them and confirm.
The NASIOC thread is here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2251394
I don't see anyone saying that they got the wrong part or that it didn't mount properly.
For a $150 savings I'd give it a try.
You can always coat it yourself with some VHT Flameproof 2000. It's about $10 a can. I've used it on 3 downpipes and it has held-up perfectly. Just follow their instructions.
http://www.unionperformance.com/08-11-s ... up-pipe-3/
I know, they call it an up-pipe, but for $70 it's probably worth sending an e-mail to them and confirm.
The NASIOC thread is here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2251394
I don't see anyone saying that they got the wrong part or that it didn't mount properly.
For a $150 savings I'd give it a try.
You can always coat it yourself with some VHT Flameproof 2000. It's about $10 a can. I've used it on 3 downpipes and it has held-up perfectly. Just follow their instructions.
- Sabre
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
If you are going to coat it, I'd wrap it in this too. I LOVE this stuff. Don't bother with their ties, just get huge hose clamps from HomeDepot ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Sabre (Julian)
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92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
![Image](http://forums.dcawd.com/images/JAZ/Walking.gif)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
- Mr Kleen
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
Don't wrap it unless you want to replace it every couple years. The wrap holds in moisture and causes the welds to fail over time.
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- Bicycle
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
no go on the shorty, the newer wrx's have a one piece dp all the way through both cats. I emailed that guy darin and it turns out its just a copy of the invidia catless and he'll sell it for a $130. I'm gonna go cobb i know its the most expensive but the quality of welds on it are just thousands times nicer than any other dp.
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- drwrx
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
Really? I have not heard anything about Subaru changing the DP to a one piece. I know they changed them on the 08-10. They followed the 05-08 Legacy GT design, but it was still two pieces.FreddyG wrote:the newer wrx's have a one piece dp all the way through both cats.
The Cobb unit is certainly high quality, but $600 is pretty steep.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
I love my Daddy's FWIW.
http://www.daddysscp.com/product_p/mdmv208.htm
http://www.daddysscp.com/product_p/mdmv208.htm
Sabre (Julian)
![Image](http://forums.dcawd.com/images/JAZ/Walking.gif)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
![Image](http://forums.dcawd.com/images/JAZ/Walking.gif)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
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- Bicycle
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
See i saw that one too, sam price as the cobb. Hmm interesting I'll have to ask around see if anyone has used it.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
Since the prices are so close I would go with the Cobb (the cast flange is nice and the cat is as far down stream as possible.
- drwrx
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
Have you seen this!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2328650
Hint, it's a new in box catted Cobb downpipe for 08+WRX.
He wants $500.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2328650
Hint, it's a new in box catted Cobb downpipe for 08+WRX.
He wants $500.
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Re: heres my logs from earlier
I know i saw and commented lol dont have the 500$ for it wasn't planing on finding a deal that soon. If he still has it next month I'll pick it up
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