removed BOV
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- bdub
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removed BOV
ok so i just took off the BOV and reset the ecu.... but now it seems the turbo lag is 10 times worse then before i started.. and also it seems like either fuel or oil was going thru the lines...am i going to run into more issues b4 this is over?
+ward!
2007 OBP sti
2007 OBP sti
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- Mr Kleen
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resetting the ECU should resolve any issues directly related to the BOV. a little oil in the lines is normal, gas is NOT. sounds like you've got something else going that isn't directly related to the BOV (unless the install and/or removal was really borked up). I've never installed or removed a BOV so this is about as much help as I can offer in this situation.
- gsx-lex
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Ain't that the truth!!!Mr Kleen wrote:this is the internets, crazier things have happened...bdub wrote:haha yea.. i put the stock part on... lol
Sabre (Julian)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
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It means can you log the data coming from the various sensors in the car to see what's actually going on
Depending on your engine management (or if it's a reflash), you can log through either a serial cable or a ODBII->USB/serial cable.
It's very helpful when you're trying to figure out problems like this.
Depending on your engine management (or if it's a reflash), you can log through either a serial cable or a ODBII->USB/serial cable.
It's very helpful when you're trying to figure out problems like this.
Sabre (Julian)
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
92.5% Stock 04 STI
Good choice putting $4,000 rims on your 1990 Honda Civic. That's like Betty White going out and getting her tits done.
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Your laggy feeling may not be boost. If you cleared your your ECU it takes time for it to adjust and relearn it's timing advance. Here is a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset or ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm, and is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower.
Also, it's normal to have a little bit of oil in your lines. Unless there was a great deal of it.
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset or ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm, and is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower.
Also, it's normal to have a little bit of oil in your lines. Unless there was a great deal of it.